To melt or not to melt?

July 6th, 2009

What is Ganache? Ganache is a filling created from an emulsion between chocolate and heated heavy cream. This filling is not only used for chocolate truffles but also for pastries and other desserts. For each, the consistency is changed according to the chocolate to cream ratio. Butter is also sometimes included in the mixture for added texture and smoothness.

I taught myself to make Ganache through book instruction when I first started making chocolates. There were few good books then, but a couple more have popped up here and there by Professional Chocolatier’s.  I was studying them the other day and noticed there are not one but two techniques to yield a “perfect” ganache. To Melt or not to Melt?

TO MELT: The method I first learned incorporated melted chocolate and heated heavy cream. I use a double boiler on the stove, to slowly and carefully melt dark chocolate to around 115 degrees F. (If using milk chocolate only to about 112 degrees F). While the chocolate is melting I heat the heavy cream and inverted sugar in a small sauce pan, stirring frequently on medium heat, to about the same temperature as the chocolate. Butter is set out in advance to achieve room temperature. I pour the melted chocolate into a small bowl adding the butter on top and begin to mix with an emulsion blender until the ganache becomes the consistency of pudding.

NOT TO MELT: This method, which I read about recently says to bring the heavy cream mixture to a rolling boil over medium high heat while stirring constantly. Then pour it on top of your chopped un-melted chocolate and let stand for about two minutes before mixing. Finally, incorporating the room-temp butter in small cubes after the emulsion has already taken place.

Baffled I thought to myself; have I been doing it wrong this whole time? Is there a better way? Can the two methods really yield such different results when the same amounts of all ingredients are used? Which one has the best consistency? Is the most efficient and practical for filled chocolates?

So, I proceeded to find out by making a batch of Double Chocolate Truffles using each method and tasting them for myself. Then, I invited some of my friends and customers to taste them as well. Both were good, but which one was better? We all agreed on which method was the best AND it wasn’t the method I was currently using on a regular basis!

What was the real difference? Texture and firmness were the most notable differences.”TO MELT” yielded a much softer ganache, too soft. And “NOT TO MELT” resulted in a much smother overall mouth-feel.

So NOT TO MELT it is!

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